FINAL DESIGN FACE CHARTS

Before deciding on a final design I came up with three different makeup ideas using Face charts. All of them were designed with elements from historical and contemporary Elizabethan makeup and they were all based around my character Lettice Knoylls.

FACE CHART 1 

For my first face chart I looked back at my research and came up with a makeup that included everything I wanted, dewy skin, gold accents, adornments to the face and dark lips. It was influenced a lot by runway makeup as I wanted to keep it minimal but striking.
I used illamasqua skin base mixed to give a pale complexion but not white. I also used a satin primer to make the skin look more dewy and contemporary. I used glamour tan to contour as it has slight grey tones to it which I think will work really well rather than a really bronzy contour which would take away the Elizabethan look. I also used a pink blush from illamasqua to fit in with the historical look.
The gold on the eyes was a mixture between liquid metals from illamasqua and the kryolan aqua colour to create the highlights in the eyes and cupids bow.
I want the eyebrows to be still visible but with white aqua colour through them. I think this works really well for fashion and I was really inspired by runway pictures.
The dark lips symbolise the bad side of Lettice Knoylls, I wanted to make her look darker and different to other Elizabethan characters. I made the lips fade outwards leaving the lips not fully filled to create a smaller lip which was a feature all women wanted in the Elizabethan era.
Although I have drawn pearls along the crease line I dont know exactly where I want to put them on the eye which is why I need to experiment and see where looks best.

FACE CHART 2 

In my second face chart I still wanted to use the concepts of dewy skin, gold accents, dark lips, adornments etc. But I wanted to change where the pearls were placed and look at different ways to place the colours on the face.
I had an idea of creating a dark contour,contemporary look, into a heart shape on the face which would give that Elizabethan historic look. I used a more bronze colour to create the shape and also used blush on the cheeks upwards rather than a round shape on the cheeks. I then used the pearls around the heart contour of the head meaning it make the heart shape more prominent and also look really feminine and pretty.
I wanted the eyebrows to be completely blocked out and the gold to be more extreme from the first look. I made the gold smudge from the inner corners up to the eyebrows and slightly across the lid. I really like how this looks as the eyes look simple but then have that striking gold.
I then used the same lip colour from my mac palette to create the dark red lips but filled in the whole lips this time making them really neat and a nice feature to the face.

FACE CHART 3 

I wanted my third and final face chart to be completely different to the others to show a range of different makeup I could possibly do.
I wanted the face to be completely pale using Illamasqua white skin base and the contour to be really strong using Glamour Tan.
The most prominent feature to the face is the black, I wanted to create a heart shape using black paint. The black made the person look almost evil and dark, but then the soft makeup counteracted and looked innocent. This is the feeling I get from my character Lettice, was she a nice or nasty person? This makeup was to show an element of a bad side and good side.
I made the lips a brighter red colour as I wanted the face to look very normal and historical Elizabethan.
After I had finished this design I liked the concept behind it but didn't like the actual look as it reminded me too much of a Disney villain. I also think the black might look too harsh on the camera and wouldn't give the right look I wanted.

INSPIRATION FOR FINAL DESIGN

Dewy skin
I really want to have dewy skin for my final design to make it more contemporary. Dewy skin today represents youthfulness, healthy and beautiful skin which is what Elizabethan women wanted back then. I still want to make the skin really pale but I just want to have that glowing highlight as I think it would look really effective with the rest of the Elizabethan look.

Dark lips
The normal Elizabethan look is very bright orange red lips where as I want to opt for a more dark grunge red lip. This is more to represent my character's personality of having a dark side to her and the fact I want her to look different to the other women of the era. I feel like she would be a manizer of her era and the dark lips would definitely lure men.

Gold accents 
I wanted gold to be included somewhere in the makeup because to me it represents royalty and wealth which my character is. I didnt want her to be covered in jewels or anything really dramatic as I think she would of been the sort of women that was really beautiful without trying or wearing extravagant makeup and clothes. The gold will be really simple and will only be to highlight certain parts of the face.

No eyebrows
I definitely want my makeup to have no eyebrows as I think this is one of the main features that screams 'Elizabethan'. Although I do want the hairs to still be visible but maybe just lightened using a white colour or maybe even bleach. I think this will really help get the message across that it is an Elizabethan makeup and it makes the other features of the face stand out more.

Adornments to the face 
Even though I want the makeup to be really simple I do want to add some sort of adornment to the face just for the extra detail. I really like the idea of pearls as they are really delicate and pretty without being too much. I think I will use really small pearls to decorate the face in some way to represent wealth and also just to make the makeup more detailed.

LADY IN WAITING CHARACTER

CONTEMPORARY ELIZABETHAN

Contemporary takes on the elizabethan era..

Illamasqua once collection

I found this contemporary version from Alex Box so beautiful, She was obviously heavily inspired by the Elizabethans which can be seen through the hair colour, outfit and makeup. I love how soft and feminine the images are. My favourite part of the whole look is that the skin is actually dewy and glowing and the eyes are dark. I love the fact the eyebrows are fair yet still visible and still give of the Elizabethan vibes. 

“old cannot exist without new, juxtaposition exalts the differences. She endures, her spirit is encapsulated, timeless and as present and as vital as the morning light, whilst everything around her gently decays. She feels both vintage yet with a modern vital spirit. Beauty endures.” Alex Box

Sheguang Hu’s s/s 2012

I couldn't find much information about Hu's collection at all. Although looking through his recent collection it is obvious he always wants to make a big statement. Nothing gives a good statement like the no eyebrow look, as not many people are used to seeing the face with no eyebrows. You can see he was inspired by the elizabethans the fact he has used huge neck frills and collars and blocking out the eyebrows and eyelashes with white makeup definitely shows some elizabethan influences. 

Alexander McQueen Fall 2014

Although there was no mention of Elizabethan inspiration in the fall collection I could definitely see some influences. For one, the eyebrows were blocked out creating the look of a high forehead, the cheeks were heavily blushed and the use of gold on the eyes definitely showed royalty. Also plaits were a huge thing in Elizabethan times and many women including Queen Elizabeth used initricate plaiting in their hairstyles. Sarah Burton said she wanted the whole look to be fairytale like with virginal smocks in broderie anglais. The virginal look was the look of the Tudor times and they have definitely somewhat took inspiration with the paleness of the face. 

"Wild beauty" was Sarah Burton's inspiration. She insisted she was over construction, corseting, control. "I wanted to see the woman's face again," she said. "Wild beauty" was Sarah Burton's inspiration. She insisted she was over construction, corseting, control. "I wanted to see the woman's face again," TIM BLANKS, VOGUE  

Vogue Russia- December 2010 

I couldnt find any information at all on the editorial from Vogue Russia but I did find out the photographer was Sharif Hamza. After looking at his other images he always takes quite striking, dark, dramatic images. I love the way this Elizabethan themed shoot is quite dark and gothic and the clothing is very structured. The lacks of eyebrows and dark lips is a beautiful look and showed referencing from the Tudor times. Also the costumes and crowns definitely represented Elizabethans. I love the dark lips and hair that is used on the last image I think it gives a very contemporary look to the image yet still shows inspiration through the plaited hair, no eyebrows and clothing. 

MONOCHROMATIC DESIGN- TECHNICAL

For my monochromatic design I chose the colour red, meaning I could only use different shades of red on a white base and nothing else. I chose the colour red because I wanted to link my design to Elizabethans,Red is the colour of blood and fire, it is associated with a number of things such as war, danger, strength, and power. It is also a very emotional colour that can indicate passion, desire and love. This links really well with Elizabethans as everything was based around war and power at that time.

I wanted to create something that was dramatic and using an intense colour like red would do this. I also wanted my design to be inspired by Elizabethan makeup so I chose to block out the eyebrows and create really rosy cheeks. 

I started by cleansing toning and moisturizing Annabel's skin making sure I had a clean and perfect base ready to apply the makeup on to. I applied a matte primer as I wanted the whole makeup to be completely matte. 

I chose to use Illamasqua skin base for my design as I wanted to start practicing using it ready for my final design. I used a damp beauty blender to create a full coverage white base. I wanted the skin to look airbrushed and flawless which the skin base did because of how moisturizing it is. I then applied a pressed powder to the whole face to prevent any product from moving. 

Annabel already has very fair eyebrows which was perfect for my design and the white colour covered them fairly well. If i was to use someone with dark eyebrows I could block them out using a red grease paint and then apply a white over the top. 

I then applied a red eye shadow from my kryolan palette to the lid, blending upwards all the way up to the eyebrow. I wanted the colour to be deeper on the lid and then get lighter towards the eyebrow. Th red made Annabel's eyes pop and really stand out. I then used a black liner in the water line to make the colour stand out even more. I used false lashes on the outer corners of both the top and bottom lashes to create a contemporary look. 

I then used a red blush on the cheeks and blended out a lot to create a pink colour. I wanted the blush to be quite round similar to the Elizabethans. I chose to do an ombre lip which makes the lips appear smaller which i like. 

Overall I really like how my design turned out and I think I transferred the look from a face chart to face really well. Although I do think it looks a little bit too 'Queen of Hearts'. I would like to try this look without a white base as I think it would portray more of a contemporary fashion look rather than theatrical.

THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

This week I visited the National Portrait Gallery with the rest of my class to see the Tudor Portraits. When there we were asked to look through the Elizabethan Portraiture and find an image that visually engages you. I then had to look for symbolic references within the portrait and talk about what the clothing says about the sitter. I also had to identify physical characterists such as age, social class, influences and personality type.
Once home I was to research the image and find out who the person was and why they were sitting for the image. Also finding out if the symbolic references I found were correct. I think this was a good way to challenge how I look at portraiture and to test my knowledge.

Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia 1596-1662
by Robert Peake the Elder


The portrait that visually engaged me was the one of Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia. Without reading the text that was near explaining about the portrait I began to look at it and really examine it. Firstly the portrait stood out to me because the women looked really young and beautiful, she also reminded me of Queen Elizabeth I with her pale complexion and structured hair. I loved her clothing with the lace trim around her neck and hair, her dress looked covered in tiny beads and jewels and she had a small jewel head piece. All of these characteristics indicate wealth and to me she looked like an important person. The fact her hair was quite structured and her makeup and clothing looked pristine says to me that she is very prosperous. I think she definitely took influences from Queen Elizabeth as her style is very similar and makeup almost exactly the same, I like that fact she was inspired by her with her own twist. She looks alot more delicate and pretty than Elizabeth I did.


The symbolic references I took from the portrait was that she looked miserable and sad, like she wasn't really happy behind the scenes of the painting. The bags under her eyes make her look really tired and almost drained of life. Her dress looked very structured and stiff making her look like a doll. The encrusted jewels on her dress and jewels hanging across her shows wealth and the lace around her neck and hair makes her look very royal as delicate lace like that is very expensive.






Researching the sitter

After Researching the sitter I found out te portrait was painted by Robert Peake the Elder who was an English painted who was active in the later part of Queen Elizabeth I reign. Elizabeth was the only surviving daughter of James I. In 1613 she married Frederick, Elector Palatine, the ruler of the Palatinate, an are of present day Germany. In 1619 following a rebellion against the Catholic Hapsburg rulers, Frederick accepted the throne of Bohemia making Elizabeth the Queen of Bohemia. He and Elizabeth were expelled after less than a year, however in one of the early battles of what became known as the Thirty Years War. Living in exile in the Hague, Elizabeth came to be seen as an ideal Protestant heroine, although in reality she had little power and less money. Her large family of children included Prince Rupert and Princess Sophia the mother of George I.

Ref- National Portrait Gallery

EXPERIMENTING WITH WHITE BASE- TECHNICAL

In this lesson we experimented with different white bases to find out which would work best, I chose to use Supracolor, Aquacolor and Illamasqua white skin base...

Supracolor

Supra color is a grease paint formula, I have previously used this product and found sometimes it can work well, sometimes it can be a a disaster. On this occasion I used a matte primer because the product is so creamy. I then used a brush to buff the product into the skin, it was fairly easy to get a good coverage as the consistency is very thick. I don't think you would be able to buff this out into a lighter coverage because it is a grease paint meaning it is a very pigmented thick formula. The finish of the product was very shiny and If you were to touch the face the product would definitely transfer. If i was to use this product for a design I would have to fully set with a translucent powder to stop any of the product moving. I do like the end result of this but felt the product was too heavy for a contemporary look and I want to find something that makes the skin look pale but not like face paint. 

Aquacolor 

Kryolan aqua color is a water activated product, knowing that i knew it would be very matte and drying therefore I used a satin primer before to make sure the skin had enough hydration. I then applied the aqua color first using a brush, the brush left streak marks through the face and was really hard to blend. I then tried using a sponge which went on the face a lot better leaving no streak marks. For a contemporary Elizabethan design I don't think this product would be best as it is very similar to face paint therefore looks almost clown-like. Although I think this would work well when recreating a traditional look as the texture is really chalky and matte and the colour pay off is really good. I feel it looks really similar to the skin back then. 

Illamasqua skin base

Illamasqua skin base was definitely my favourite of the three as it was very versatile and you could build it up to the coverage you wanted. I used a satin primer again as I wanted to see how dewy it would go, as you can always make the formula matte afterwards with a primer. I found the product easy to use and if it was buffed out enough you could create a lovely light coverage giving just a hint of white to the face. I then tried using a sponge which created a full coverage white face, this also looked really good and I preferred the texture of the product to the other ones as it was easy to blend and easy to build up. I am going to try using this product for my final design as I think it will work really well and photograph nicely. 

OTHER INTERPRETATIONS OF QUEEN ELIZABETH- FILM AND TV

Over the decades like many icons Queen Elizabeth has been portrayed many times by many famous actresses. It really shows how she is one of histories most remembered Queens. Each film portrays Elizabeth in a different way, all similar but a lot of details influenced by their own era. Its interesting to see the journey of the look developing through the years...



Mary of Scotland (1936)

'Mary (Katharine Hepburn), by assuming her throne as Queen of Scotland, strikes terror into the heart of Queen Elizabeth I (Florence Eldridge). After languishing in jail for 18 years at Elizabeth's command, Mary is offered a pardon if she will sign away her throne.' Wikipedia- Mary of Scotland (film) 

 It is hard to see how the makeup looks in the film as it is in black and white, although you can still see a change from no makeup to a really harsh hairline towards the end and thick caked makeup. I like the way the eyebrows are still visible yet only a thin line which has been influenced from the era the film was made.  

The Virgin Queen (1955)


'Sir Walter Raleigh overcomes court intrigue to win favor with the Queen in order to get financing for a proposed voyage to the New World.' IMDb 

Bette Davis plays Queen Elizabeth in the film that focuses on the relationship between Elizabeth and Sir Walter Raleigh. I think this is one of the first films that shows the true dramatic look of the Queen with the huge forehead and pasty makeup. It is also one of the first colour films portraying her which means you can see the makeup a lot better including the bright red lips and ghostly white skin.



Elizabeth R (1971)


'When Elizabeth Tudor comes to the throne, her (male) advisers know she has to marry. Doesn't she? Thus starts a decades-long political/ matrimonial game, during an age of high passions and high achievement.' IMDb 
Elizabeth R was a TV Drama Series that showed the Queens transformation in the most dramatic form. The makeup that was portrayed towards the end looked almost clown like, a bald cap was also used to make the hair look as far back as possible. I think the tv series showed the change really well and showed how extreme it really was.












Shakespeare in Love (1998)
'A young Shakespeare, out of ideas and short of cash, meets his ideal woman and is inspired to write one of his most famous plays.' IMDb

Shakespeare in love starring Judi Dench as Elizabeth is a story of her being involved in a romantic tail of Shakespeare falling in love. The makeup is portrayed very well showing she is trying to hide her age. The heart shape wig is also very accurate along with the elaborate costumes and jewelry.




The Virgin Queen (2005)

'The Virgin Queen explores the full sweep of Elizabeth's life: from her days of fear as a potential victim of her sister's terror; through her great love affair with Robert Dudley; into her years of triumph over the Armada; and finally her old age and her last, enigmatic relationship with her young protégé, the Earl of Essex.' IMBd 
Anne-Marie Duff played Elizabeth in this adaptation of Elizabeth's life. The film covers all major ages - from her innocent teenage years to her older years as Queen. This is the perfect film to show her transformation and how much she changes through the main stages in her life. The makeup and hair differs from other films, she has strawberry blonde hair instead of fiery red.

TUDOR COSMETICS

In my introduction to Elizabethan makeup I mentioned about some of the dangers that were used in Tudor times, especially in the cosmetics. After doing some more research I wanted to go more into depth about the the cosmetics and the dangerous ingredients within them. I wanted to understand more about what was used as I think it is an important factor of the Tudor times and really emphasises how far they would go to look beautiful.
Although the women used makeup to indicate their wealth they also used it for more practical reasons like we do now. Most used the thick makeup to hide scars and other diseases such as smallpox that were very common.
The use of heavy makeup wasn't popular during the early Tudors, they actually used more natural products to soften the skin with ingredients such as honey, beeswax and sesame oil.
It wasn't until Queen Elizabeth set the fashions that makeup became popular in England. She wore really dramatic makeup to hide any imperfections, wrinkles or signs of ageing, this made other women want to do the same, which is why makeup became so popular.

The white paint that was favored by the upper class named 'ceruse' was made from extremely dangerous ingredients. The mixture contained white lead and vinegar which was actually poisonous making the skin in very bad condition. The high class Tudor women used to bleed their face to achieve the washed out complexion and face paint made our of plant roots was also used.
They also used Kohl to darken the eyelashes which was imported from the middle east and products names madder and vermilion were used to make the rouge for the lips and cheeks. This would stain them and last a very long time.
Apparently the richer women used to laugh at the poor women for using cheaper versions of the products such as flour for a white, face which is quite ironic as the more expensive product caused a lot of damage,where as the cheap version had no damaging effects at all.
In the pictures we see Corinthian pyxis with a red powder, and two make-up pots with molded tablets of white lead.. Found in a tomb from the 5th c. BC. Although a lot earlier than the Tudors this is where the ingredients were first seen to be used and are very similar to what was used by Queen Elizabeth. I find it really interesting to see how far back makeup was used.




References 

Beauty and Cosmetics 1550-1950
Sarah Jane Downing
Tudor Makeup
http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm
Dangerous beauty
http://www.thetudorswiki.com/thread/4627614/Tudor+Cosmetics...dangerous+beauty

COLOUR THEORY AND FACE CHART

Colour theory is really important in all different subjects but especially in the world of makeup. Knowing which colours compliment different skin, hair and eye colours is vital to get the best makeup look possible for the person.

In my opinion there is no rules in makeup and you should be able to wear whatever colour makes you happy, although their are some guidelines. This will help people to find the right colours for them if they are just starting out, using colour theory will make sure everything on your face looks harmonious.
This is what I learnt about basic colour theory...


The colour wheel is divided into three parts which are Primary Secondary and Tertiary...

PRIMARY is red blue and yellow, the three colours that are considered to be the most important, the foundation colours that create all other colours.

SECONDARY is when you combine two primary colours to create another colour. They're three secondary colours that can be made which is orange, violet and green.

TERTIARY is the six colours made from mixing a primary colour and a separate secondary colour together. The colour made are yellow-orange, orange-red, red-violet, violet-blue, blue-green and green-yellow.

HUE is all of these type of colours they are the infite number of colours that you can make with the primary, secondary and tertiary colours without adding any black or white.

TINTS is adding white to a hue.

SHADES is adding black to a hue.

TONES is adding grey to a hue.

COMPLEMENTARY AND CONTRASTING colours is colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel they will always compliment eachother really well. Although make sure you arrange them wisely or they can clash if there is too many as they will all try stand in the spotlight. These work best when using two colours as they will make each other pop and stand out really nicely.

ANALOGOUS colours are the shades next to eachother on the colour wheel, they will normally create a really nice soft tone.

ACHROMATIC colours are black, white and grey.

NEUTRAL colours are brown earthy tones.

MONOCHROMATIC colours are different shades of the same colour eg. light blue, dark blue. These work really well for eyeshadow and are probably one of the easiest colour palettes to work with when trying out makeup shades.

All colours can also come in cool and warm undertones (just to make it even more complicated) For example a lot of foundations and lipsticks come in different undertones. Here is a picture of MAC's NW shade and NC shade. NW (right) is a warm shade with a pink undertone where as NC (left) is a cool shade that has more of a yellow undertone.

This diagram really helped me to understand more about colour theory and colour charts I am going to print this for my makeup kit so that I can refer back to it..

References

Colour Theory in Makeup- 

http://sharonthemakeupartist.com/colour-theory-in-makeup/

Colour Theory in Makeup Artistry- https://tommybeautypro.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/makeup-101-colour-theory-make-up-artistry/

Theory of Colours- Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

MY FIRST FACE CHART
For my first practice of a face chart in a long while I decided to use contrasting colours to see if they would work well together. I first used powder products but found they weren't really sticking to the paper at all and didn't come off very pigmented. I tried using a brush and my finger but none of them techniques achieved the brightness I was aiming for. I then decided to try Kryolan Supracolour which is a grease paint. I knew cream products would go really bright on the paper but I was worried they wouldn't blend at all. To my surprise they did actually blend well when using a brush. I then patted eye shadow over the top to set the product and stop it from moving on the paper.
I went for a really dramatic bold eye using purple and yellow, which looked fabulous together and I can really see why you would use contrasting colours if you wanted the makeup to stand out.
I also used purple on the outside of the lips with yellow in the inside to create an ombre effect.
I like how my face chart turned out but next time I need to try not to smudge product all over the paper as I don't want the face to end up with black smeared all over her chin again. I also need to try different products to see if any work better for doing other eye colours and I need to try different face products and I focused more on the eyes and lips this time.

Consultation notes and health and safety

It is important to use consultation notes and healthy safety notes when in the studio. Every time you are going to be working on a model you should have had a consultation asking about their skin type, any allergies and any skin conditions. If you don't ask about these things it could result in your products getting contaminated and could cause a serious risk to anyone they are being used on.

NOTES USED IN CLASS-

Do you use any special skin care products?
Do you have any skin conditions?
What kind of skin do you have? Dry, oily, normal?
Are you allergic to anything?

Health and safety is also really important you should make sure your brushes and products are clean and should never cross contaminate products. Making sure you always scrape the product off first is important. Cross contamination can lead to eye infections and skin infections.
Also making sure your work area is clean and tidy is important. Making sure any hot tools are out of reach and no wires are across the floor. Food and drink should not be near the makeup area to prevent spills.

HISTORICAL ELIZABETHAN MAKEUP

In this lesson we had to create a historical elizabethan makeup. I didn't have a partner so worked on myself. I used a pale foundation with high coverage and a matte primer to make the skin look like it would in Elizabethan times. I then used a pink blush from my illamasqua blush duo to brighten up the cheek area and make it look authentic. I blocked out my eyebrows with white paint and glue to make them appear not there. I then used a red lipstick on my lips and focus just on the middle of the lips to make them appear smaller. 

PRODUCTS USED- 

Illamasqua matte primer 

Illamasqua white skin base 

translucent powder 

nyx jumbo pencil 

illamasqua blush duo 

kryolan lipstick 

PERFECT EYES AND LIPS- TECHNICAL

When doing eye makeup you always have to think about the eye shape this sheet really helped to figure out where the shadow should go when creating an eye shape.
My partners eyes were close set.
I started by adding a light colour all over the eye. I then added a white highlight to the inner corners which would make the eyes seem further apart from eachother and create an illusion of more space. I then added a darker colour to the outside which would also bring the eyes further away from eachother. I also added lashes to the outer corner only to create a more cat eye shape.

When applying the lip colour i first used a lip liner outlining the natural lip line and then scraping off my lipstick i used a lipbrush to apply from the outside downwards towards the middle of the lip. I chose a mauve pink lip as it would compliment her skin tone. I then went around the lip using concealer and a small brush to neaten it up.

CONTOURING AND SHAPING THE FACE- TECHNICAL

Products Used 
Illamasqua Satin Primer
Illamasqua Skin Base
Ultra foundation
Illamasqua Contour Palette
Revolution baked highlighter
illamasqua translucent powder




In this lesson we learnt how to shape the face using contouring and highlighting. We started by creating a base using foundation and concealer, making sure the colour of the face matched the neck perfectly.Nikki's skin is combination but tends to be a little dry therefore I used the Satin primer to make sure her face was hydrated.
Once we had finished the base before powdering we then started to cream contour. I used the second from darkest shade in the ultra foundation palette for the contour as Nikki's skin is fairly dark. using the edge of my finger to find her cheekbone I pushed the product into the hollows of the cheeks. I then blended the product completely to create a natural shadow to the cheek. I then applied the same colour on the side of the forehead and down the center of the nose. This shades and creates a slimmer looking face.
I then used the lightest shade in the ultra foundation palette to create a highlight, this lifts the face and creates a plumper look. Therefore using it on the tops of the cheekbones accentuates them making them look fuller. I also used this down the center of the nose.
After cream contouring I then powdered the whole face with translucent powder and went on to powder contouring. I love powder contouring as I think it is easier to blend and gives a more natural look. I used the Illamasqua contour palette on the cheekbones, the colour really suited Nikki's face and complimented her skin tone well. I then used Revolution baked highlighter on the cheekbones to give a glow to the face. Powder highlighters are one of my favourite products as you can create a dewiness without the face being oily.

Overall I think my attempt at contouring was successful, unfortunately I forgot to use blush on the cheeks which I will definitely do next time as I think this gives a nice healthy glow to the face.

BASE APPLICATION- TECHNICAL

In this lesson we were took back to basics and taught how to create a flawless face using makeup. We learnt about the basic steps to creating a perfect base and all the different aspects you need to think about such as colour matching, different types of coverage and what different brushes are used for.

The base should match the wearers skin perfectly and be hardly noticeable when blended. The skin colour varies, if someone has quite patchy skin the colour should always be matched with the colour that the majority of the face is. You also need to think about the location and situation the makeup is going to be in to choose the best formula eg. waterproof for wet conditions, spf for sunny conditions.

Sue showed us her technique of applying the foundation all over the skin and buffing it in using a kabuki brush and then repeating the step after applying concealer. She then applied powder to set the face and reduce shine once everything had been buffed enough.

In my opinion this technique didn't work for me and I don't think I will use it in the future as I think buffing the skin too harshly can cause micro exfoliation and dry the skin out alot, which it did to mine. I did try the technique and it irritated and made my skin very scaly. I prefer to pat the foundation into place using a sponge or using a smaller brush to lightly buff and pat the foundation into place. When I tried the technique with the kabuki brush I found most of the foundation just started to come off and move around and the end result looked patchy and uneven.

Products used

• No7 Cleanser and Toner 
• Nivea Moisturiser 
• Illamasqua Satin Primer 
• Illamasqua skin base 08 
• Derma colour concealer 
• Illamasqua translucent powder 

Basic Application Process

1.) Cleanse tone and moisturise
2.) Apply a primer depending on the skin type and the finish you want for you end result eg. Matte primer for oily skin
3.) Apply the foundation all over the skin working from the middle outwards
4.) Use small buffing and patting motions to lightly blend the foundation without moving it
5.) Once all blended apply any other cream products if using any eg. concealer on any blemishes and under the eyes
6.) Then apply powder in the centre of the face, under the eyes and on the eyelids to prevent shine and creasing

SKIN PREP- CLEANSE, TONE AND MOISTURISE- TECHNICAL

In our first technical lesson we were taught how to cleanse tone and moisture the skin properly. Very basic but also very important as before any makeup application you always need a perfect base.
Firstly before anything is applied to the face a small consultation should be held, this should just be a few questions about what there skin type is, do they have any allergies, do they use any specific or special products on their face..
If the person has extremely dry skin or suffers from eczema a special product may be used such as a topical cream or cleanser. A normal cleanser could irritate the face and cause redness therefore always check with the person.
The products should always be hypoallergenic no matter who's face you are applying them to and always ask about things such as contact lenses in case you move them when using your hands on the face.

Before starting apply a cape around the person to prevent any product from getting on their clothing, make sure the hair is out of the face and they are comfortable. Always talk to your client and tell them what you are doing throughout.

Cleansing
Cleanser is used to remove any dirt or makeup from the skin, if old makeup is not removed previous to make up application it can create an uneven bumpy canvas.
Firstly make sure you have washed your hands and made the client aware before you start to cleanse. Apply cleanser to a cotton pads and start from the neck upwards, making the model tilt there head back. When cleansing the eyebrows use back and forth motions to make sure you get any excess product clinging to the hairs. The cotton pad can then be used over the eyelids and then changing to a cotton bud for under the eye lash line making sure the client is looking up. Make sure to cleanse every part of the face and neck thoroughly.

Toning
Toning removes any leftover makeup that might not have been picked up by the cleanser. It also preps the skin for moisture.
When using toner you are basically repeating the exact steps you did with cleanser, using a cotton pad use a small amount of toner all over the face and neck getting any leftover residue. If the eye makeup still isn't coming off ask the client to try and remove it their self as they will be able to apply more pressure.

Moisturising
Moisturiser in my opinion is a very important part of prepping the skin, it will keep the skin hydrated and makes the skin smooth and ready for makeup application. Without it, base makeup can become caked and dry.
Using a pea size amount use your hands to massage it into the skin, starting again from the neck working upwards towards the forehead. Leave the moisturiser to soak into the skin before applying a base.

The products I used were my own and purchased for my kit, I chose No7 as they are famous for their fabulous skin care range and they have always worked brilliantly for my super sensitive skin. They are all hypo allergenic meaning they wont cause any break outs or allergies on any clients. The moisturiser is a Nivea moisturiser which I have used on clients for a few years, it is very basic yet really effective. I like it because it isn't too thick or thin and you can feel it hydrating the skin from the moment you apply it.

                

TRANSFORMATION THROUGH MAKEUP- ELIZABETH (1998)

In the film 'Elizabeth' we see the transformation from young girl to Queen of England. One of the most dramatic changes in this revolution is her makeup and hair.
In the start of the film Elizabeth lacks any sort of makeup at all and appears completely natural. She looks baby faced and 'pure'. Her hair is long and strawberry blonde with plaits. In the first scenes we see her very happy dancing and trying to attract the young man that is Robert Dudley. He appears to be fascinated by her clean and natural looks which soon changes when she begins to transform during the film. You can see in the scenes before the starts to wear makeup she has colour in her face from the sun which is portrayed as lower class. Her hair looked messy and loose and she wore plain dresses with a lack of jewelry.

Once she is made Queen her looks start to change quite quickly, although at first her natural makeup continues her face becomes slightly paler and her hair is more groomed and sleek. Once the Queen is made to find a suitable husband she becomes a lot more lavish, with pristine hairstyles weaved with jewels and flowers.

As she becomes wealthier and experiences the luxurious life style she begins to indulge, this is shown when she starts to wear bigger dresses and headpieces and more dramatic makeup. Her face becomes extremely pale white and very chalky with red rosy cheeks and red small lips her eyebrows are virtually invisible and her hair is now mostly up with beautiful head pieces.

At the end of the film this look is taken even further when her head is shaved to create a higher forehead and to fit her extreme wigs onto her head. Her face is as white as snow and her cheeks and lips are a lot more deep in colour. Everything is lot more dramatic.

The transformation shows her coming from an innocent young girl to the Queen of England, the ruler of the country. In a way the makeup acts as a way of showing she was ready to rule, a way of showing that she could be a icon for the women of her era and a statement in history. I enjoyed seeing the changes throughout the film and knowing more about how it actually happened and why the makeup and hair became so dramatic. When researching about how the makeup artists on the film did the makeup I found a few things I could use when recreating the makeup such as using full coverage foundation and layers of powder, they also bleached the eyebrows to get the full effect which I think would be a great idea for my project although I'm unsure I would dare to bleach my own eyebrows.

INTRODUCTION TO ELIZABETHAN MAKEUP

The Elizabethan Era was a time when makeup started to become
something of everyday use and defined you as a person. Queen Elizabeth became an inspiration, her pale base and rosy cheeks became the look that portrayed an upper class woman. A look that was viewed as pure beauty of that era. 

From what I understand the Elizabethan view of ideal beauty was pale snow-white skin with light hair and rosy cheeks and lips. Pale was beautiful because only upper class women could achieve this look, lower class women worked outside a lot therefore couldn't maintain a pale face as they would easily tan in the sun. Therefore the pale complexion symbolized wealth and nobility.
Queen Elizabeth used white make-up to achieve the look and make it as dramatic as possible, this is why in a couple of portraits of her she looks ghostly white. The complexion was that desirable that women went to the extremes of draining their blood and using white makeup called ceruse that included lead and vinegar, this was extremely poisonous. An upper class Elizabethan women may also dye their hair lighter to look more like Queen Elizabeth, they used a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil which made a yellow hair dye. 
From other research I also learnt that women of high class desired a high forehead meaning many of them would pluck hairs out to reach a hairline that was very far back. They also plucked there eyebrows out to give them the image of an even larger forehead. In this era a high forehead meant beauty and nobleness. 
Another big aspect of the era was skin products. Elizabethan were obsessed with their skin and making it as clear as possible, they used lemon juice to try remove freckles and age spots, they also used donkey milk to try help the damage that the ceruse has caused. Another thing that I found interesting and would love to try is they used egg white on their face to glaze their complexion and hide and fill any wrinkles. I find this really strange and I think I would like to see if it actually does work. 
I find the whole Elizabethan era interesting as I like the fact they went from wearing no makeup at all and makeup being frowned upon to a very dramatic look that was suddenly portrayed as beautiful because the Queen did it. I am excited to find out more about the Era and hopefully learn some more interesting facts and techniques to achieve the Elizabethan look.


References 

Facial Beauty http://elizabethanmuseum.weebly.com/facial-beauty.html 2013

Elizabeth Era Makeup http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/Elizabethan-Make-up.html 2015

Beauty in the 17th Century http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century 2015