FINAL OUTCOME

Makeup designer- Amelia Richmond Knight 

Makeup artist- Me 

I like how my final makeup turned out although i think there was a lot of room for improvement. I love how the skin looks and the heart shape i think i improved alot from the practises. I wish i had more time to be able to blend the nose contour more and make it more clean. I also would have loved to make the lips much neater and blended as I feel they look quite messy. I love how the eyebrows look and think the white was really effective. I think I created the look to a good standard although just the little details i could of improved on. I feel like i met Amelias expectations and took note of everything she wanted to change from the practises. 

Makeup designer- Me                

 Makeup Artist- Amelia Richmond Knight 

I feel like me and my partner worked well in the way of we knew exactly what our designs were from the start and we kept in contact through the whole process with more than 3 practises each. I did find it difficult working with someone who hadn't done a lot of makeup previously and felt i had to push a few suggestions to make the makeup efficient. I feel like Amelia improved a lot through her practises and took on board my criticism which really helped the final piece. I liked how the final design looked, If i was to do it again myself i would of changed a couple of things including making the skin look a lot more smoother and a lot better coverage around my blemishes. I also would have changed the shape of how the peals were placed as they were meant to look like a cut crease but kind of curved a little. The contour also looked quite mucky and my skin is general looked very pink. The blush placement was a lot better in the final makeup and i like the eyebrows.  

MY PARTNER PRACTICING MY DESIGN

Here are the photos from the first practice my partner did of my design. I feel we worked really well together and it was easy to give each other instructions. I gave my partner ,Amelia, photos of my design and my face chart. Along with a list of products needed.
Obviously for the first practise there will be more cons then pros because this is the time to be picky about my design and point out the things that i want slightly changing..

PROS 

• Eyebrows were covered well and looked the same as my design 
• My right eye pearls were very successful and were the shape I wanted them to be. 
• The gold was applied correctly 
• The lips were faded nicely 

CONS 

• The way the foundation was applied wasn't as I wanted it which meant blemishes werent covered as well as I would of liked and looked streaky in places. Using patting motions instead of swiping with the sponge will help to keep the foundation flawless and make sure everywhere has a nice even coverage with no streaked parts (under eyes and nose especially) 
• Make sure the chin and any blemishes are completely covered and the skin looks really dewy and smooth. Don't use a brush as this will create streaks and dryness as my skin is really sensitive. 
• Use powder only under the eyes and try not get anywhere else as the skin needs to look really dewy. 
• Make the contour really visible but blend it really well. Dont bring it too far towards the mouth. 
• Use patting motions when putting highlighter on the nose as this will prevent the foundation from moving 
• Use a really fluffy brush for the eyeshadow, the eyeshadow needs to be really blended and symmetrical. Make sure it is kept only in the crease and not too far to the eyebrows. 
• When applying the blusher make sure it is on the right part of the face right on the apples of the cheeks, the blusher was really high and was close to my eye when it should be at the bottom of my cheekbones and blended into the contour. They became two separates on the face with a space between. The blush should sit slightly on the bottom of the contour and blend in easily. 
• Make sure the cupids bow is really prominent meaning you will have to line it into shape. 

For a first practise I think the design was successful but there was quite a few things I wanted to be particular about to give my design the look I wanted. 

PRACTISING MY PARTNERS FINAL DESIGN

First Practise 

This was my first practise of my partners design. I was quite nervous about doing the symmetrical shape on the face and getting it really crisp. Me being the perfectionist I am would change a lot about my first practise but I did like the blending of the gold on the outside of the heart and I think it looked really effective.

CHANGES TO BE MADE... 

• Use a ruler to actually help make the shape symmetrical, especially the cheek bone shape as one was more further in that the other side. 
• Use concealer on any blemishes making sure the skin looks flawless and the foundation is a nice full coverage. 
• Make the point of the heart in the middle really sharp, using a thinner brush. 
• Use a black liner and red lipstick instead of the Supra colour which was discussed with partner who agreed it would work better as super colour is not a good lip product as it slips really easily. 
• I would like the make the nose contour smaller lines and blend it downwards really lightly as I think this looks really harsh. 
• Use a cream product under the eyes to make the color a lot denser. Also use a different more deeper red eyeshadow as this one looked really pink even when layering it. 
• Make the flicks more upwards and end at the eyebrows so they aren't as prominent 
• Neaten up the eye area in general making the lines alot more clean and blended. 

STEP BY STEP GUIDE

Step to step guide for my final makeup look 

1.) Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face. Using Aveeno moisturiser to suit the dry skin type.

2.) Apply satin primer to the whole face and leave for a minute before applying foundation.

3.) Mix Illamasqua skin base foundation, 2 parts 01 and 1 part 08.

4.) Apply using a damp sponge to whole of face, don't use a brush.

5.) Only use patting motions all over the face, don't swipe the sponge or make circular motions as this will rub the foundation off.

6.) Keep building up the coverage until all of the redness is covered and the face looks flawless.

7.) Apply illamasqua skin base lift in corners and across eyelids and under the eye and cupids bow. Blend with sponge (patting motions)

8.) Set under eyes using loose powder and powder puff and then apply contour with a mixture of colours Glamour Tan and Bronzing Summer from the powder contour kit to the cheekbones and forehead.

9.) Apply colour pale tan to the upper cheeks and then use Revolution highlighter on top. Also use on the bridge of the nose.

10.) Apply illamasqua pink blush to the centre of cheeks in circular motions making sure it meets with the contour.

11.) Apply kryolan aqua colour to eyebrows using a spooley brushing upwards to create a bushy eyebrow effect, covering completely in product.

12.) Apply MAC cosy grey eyeshadow to the crease of the eye, dark enough for the pearls to stand out later on. Use a fluffy brush making sure they are completely blending.

13.) Apply illamasqua liquid metals in gold to inner corner of eyes and cupids bow

14.) Apply mascara making the eyelashes really black and quite clumped.

15.) Apply rimmel purple liner in middle of lips and blend outwards making the lips slightly over lined and the cupids bow more prominent.

16.) Apply sleek lipstick on top of lip liner and blend outwards, then use concealer on the corner of the lips and blend inwards.

17.) Apply pearls using eyelash glue to stick them onto the skin, just slightly above the crease going downwards like in the picture. Do not make the pearls too arched or round.

MY FINAL DESIGN

After incorporating all of the features I wanted in my final design and working from my first face chart I came up with this makeup as my final design. I love how the final makeup turned out and I like how it is quite simple yet really effective. I kept the skin looking really dewy and highlighted with a pale base. I used dark red lips to show Lettice Knoylls dark side and faded them outwards to give a fashion vibe. I wanted the eyebrows to stay white and look brushed through so they weren't a prominent feature to the face.  I love how the pearls look on the eye and my idea was to create a contemporary 'cut crease' look but using adornments that may have been used in the elizabethan era. I wanted my look to be very fashion based and suitable for runway. I think I have achieved this without it being too dramatic as I wanted to make sure it wasn't over the top or similar to other designs. If i was to do this again I might have used something else other than pearls as I know many people have used pearls and I'd like to do something different. I also would use lashes on the bottom if I had more time to make the eyes look bigger.

PRODUCT LIST TO USE-

SKIN-
Illamasqua skin base WHITE and 07 mixed
Illamasqua satin primer
Seventeen liquid highlighter (will be provided)
Illamasqua translucent powder
Illamasqua sculpt kit (will be provided)
Illamasqua blush duo (will be provided)
Revolution baked highlighter (will be provided)


EYES AND EYEBROWS-
NYX jumbo pencil (will be provided)
Illamasqua metal palette- gold
MAC brown eyeshadow from palette
black mascara
small pearls (will be provided)

LIPS
Sleek lipstick (will be provided)

MY FINAL DESIGN PRACTICE

Today I decided to practise two of my face charts and see which I preferred best on the actual face. I wanted to create something that  was simple but detailed, very pretty and was going to look great on camera.

PRACTISING THE BASE AND BLOCKING OUT EYEBROWS 

In the first image you can see I have applied the base, this was Illamasqua skin base 08 mixed with 01, I wanted the skin to be very pale but still have a yellow undertone and not be completely white. The skinbase worked really well especially with the satin primer underneath, it made the skin flawless and dewy and gave enough coverage to cover any blemishes and redness. I then used the dermacolor concealer mixed with illamasqua skin base lift in white for under the eyes to brighten up the face and hide any unwanted dark circles. I wanted to create my look based for fashion or editorial so I think the choice of foundation is great for that as other foundations such as the ultra palette is a lot more full coverage and I don't think it would look as nice on camera. 

I then used a couple of different products on the eyebrows to see which worked best. First I tried an Illamasqua skin base lift in white with a spoolie and brushed the product through the eyebrows it worked really well but I couldn't get the brushed up effect I wanted because the product was cream based meaning it just warmed up and the hair fell back into place. 

I wanted something that would keep the eyebrows standing up and made them look more bushy and the hairs more defined. I decided to try a water base product which I know would stick to every individual hair. The aqua colour worked really well and helped the eyebrows stay in place. 

I then experimented my first design by using the gold in the inner corners and creating the fashion ombre lip. I also added some light brown to the crease of the eye just to create some shade so the eye wasn't so blank. It also means once the pearls were there they would stand out more against the brown. I tried using some of the gold under the brow bone which in the end I didn't really like as the colour showed up different on camera. I also added some blush and contour which made the skin exactly how I wanted it to look, I like the fact it was dewy and highlighted but still looked like the elizabethan historic skin with the blushed cheeks and pale complexion. 

CHOOSING A PLACEMENT
The next step was to choose the placement of the pearls, I knew I wanted them somewhere around the eye but not on top of the eyebrow as I knew this would make the forehead look smaller and I wanted to make it look as big as possible to fit in with the ELizabethan theme. I tried doing them directly across the eye from the inner corner to the end of the brow and I quite liked how it looked but I wanted it to look a bit more softer and feminine. I then tried extending the line of pearls to the hair line to see if it would look better, as the sides of the face are quite plain. Unfortunately because of the face shape the line became distorted and it was difficult to get it into a straight line, on camera it appeared to bend.
I then tried the design which I did on the face chart which was rounded on the crease of the eye. I loved how this looked and thought it looked a lot more pretty and suited the face shape. I then added black mascara to make the eye colour pop and look more defined.

CREATING A FINAL LOOK AND PRACTISING MY SECOND FACE CHART
I then made this into a final look by creating a hairstyle as I wanted to see what both face charts would look like finalised. I then went on to creating the second look. I left all of the products the same but removed the blusher and took the pearls off ready to create the next look.
I started by adding more gold to the inner corner of the eye and over the eyebrows. I also made the lips fully lined and filled. I then used a bronzer to create the contour, I used a piece of card as a stencil to create the heart shape of the forehead and carried the bronzer down onto the cheekbones.
I then added the pearls using eyelash glue and tweezers around the heart shape contour making it more prominent.

CHOOSING A FINAL DESIGN 
I really like how both designs turned out which meant it was harder to choose between the two of them. When creating a final look including hair I decided to go with the first design as it looked a lot better with the hairstyle I wanted to do. Even though the other makeup looked really effective too it didn't work well with the hairstyle as there was too much on the forehead. I feel like its really important to think of every element of your final design to be able to find the right makeup. If you don't think about the hair, outfit, accessories etc. then things can clash or not work together.

FINAL DESIGN FACE CHARTS

Before deciding on a final design I came up with three different makeup ideas using Face charts. All of them were designed with elements from historical and contemporary Elizabethan makeup and they were all based around my character Lettice Knoylls.

FACE CHART 1 

For my first face chart I looked back at my research and came up with a makeup that included everything I wanted, dewy skin, gold accents, adornments to the face and dark lips. It was influenced a lot by runway makeup as I wanted to keep it minimal but striking.
I used illamasqua skin base mixed to give a pale complexion but not white. I also used a satin primer to make the skin look more dewy and contemporary. I used glamour tan to contour as it has slight grey tones to it which I think will work really well rather than a really bronzy contour which would take away the Elizabethan look. I also used a pink blush from illamasqua to fit in with the historical look.
The gold on the eyes was a mixture between liquid metals from illamasqua and the kryolan aqua colour to create the highlights in the eyes and cupids bow.
I want the eyebrows to be still visible but with white aqua colour through them. I think this works really well for fashion and I was really inspired by runway pictures.
The dark lips symbolise the bad side of Lettice Knoylls, I wanted to make her look darker and different to other Elizabethan characters. I made the lips fade outwards leaving the lips not fully filled to create a smaller lip which was a feature all women wanted in the Elizabethan era.
Although I have drawn pearls along the crease line I dont know exactly where I want to put them on the eye which is why I need to experiment and see where looks best.

FACE CHART 2 

In my second face chart I still wanted to use the concepts of dewy skin, gold accents, dark lips, adornments etc. But I wanted to change where the pearls were placed and look at different ways to place the colours on the face.
I had an idea of creating a dark contour,contemporary look, into a heart shape on the face which would give that Elizabethan historic look. I used a more bronze colour to create the shape and also used blush on the cheeks upwards rather than a round shape on the cheeks. I then used the pearls around the heart contour of the head meaning it make the heart shape more prominent and also look really feminine and pretty.
I wanted the eyebrows to be completely blocked out and the gold to be more extreme from the first look. I made the gold smudge from the inner corners up to the eyebrows and slightly across the lid. I really like how this looks as the eyes look simple but then have that striking gold.
I then used the same lip colour from my mac palette to create the dark red lips but filled in the whole lips this time making them really neat and a nice feature to the face.

FACE CHART 3 

I wanted my third and final face chart to be completely different to the others to show a range of different makeup I could possibly do.
I wanted the face to be completely pale using Illamasqua white skin base and the contour to be really strong using Glamour Tan.
The most prominent feature to the face is the black, I wanted to create a heart shape using black paint. The black made the person look almost evil and dark, but then the soft makeup counteracted and looked innocent. This is the feeling I get from my character Lettice, was she a nice or nasty person? This makeup was to show an element of a bad side and good side.
I made the lips a brighter red colour as I wanted the face to look very normal and historical Elizabethan.
After I had finished this design I liked the concept behind it but didn't like the actual look as it reminded me too much of a Disney villain. I also think the black might look too harsh on the camera and wouldn't give the right look I wanted.