FINAL OUTCOME

Makeup designer- Amelia Richmond Knight 

Makeup artist- Me 

I like how my final makeup turned out although i think there was a lot of room for improvement. I love how the skin looks and the heart shape i think i improved alot from the practises. I wish i had more time to be able to blend the nose contour more and make it more clean. I also would have loved to make the lips much neater and blended as I feel they look quite messy. I love how the eyebrows look and think the white was really effective. I think I created the look to a good standard although just the little details i could of improved on. I feel like i met Amelias expectations and took note of everything she wanted to change from the practises. 

Makeup designer- Me                

 Makeup Artist- Amelia Richmond Knight 

I feel like me and my partner worked well in the way of we knew exactly what our designs were from the start and we kept in contact through the whole process with more than 3 practises each. I did find it difficult working with someone who hadn't done a lot of makeup previously and felt i had to push a few suggestions to make the makeup efficient. I feel like Amelia improved a lot through her practises and took on board my criticism which really helped the final piece. I liked how the final design looked, If i was to do it again myself i would of changed a couple of things including making the skin look a lot more smoother and a lot better coverage around my blemishes. I also would have changed the shape of how the peals were placed as they were meant to look like a cut crease but kind of curved a little. The contour also looked quite mucky and my skin is general looked very pink. The blush placement was a lot better in the final makeup and i like the eyebrows.  

MY PARTNER PRACTICING MY DESIGN

Here are the photos from the first practice my partner did of my design. I feel we worked really well together and it was easy to give each other instructions. I gave my partner ,Amelia, photos of my design and my face chart. Along with a list of products needed.
Obviously for the first practise there will be more cons then pros because this is the time to be picky about my design and point out the things that i want slightly changing..

PROS 

• Eyebrows were covered well and looked the same as my design 
• My right eye pearls were very successful and were the shape I wanted them to be. 
• The gold was applied correctly 
• The lips were faded nicely 

CONS 

• The way the foundation was applied wasn't as I wanted it which meant blemishes werent covered as well as I would of liked and looked streaky in places. Using patting motions instead of swiping with the sponge will help to keep the foundation flawless and make sure everywhere has a nice even coverage with no streaked parts (under eyes and nose especially) 
• Make sure the chin and any blemishes are completely covered and the skin looks really dewy and smooth. Don't use a brush as this will create streaks and dryness as my skin is really sensitive. 
• Use powder only under the eyes and try not get anywhere else as the skin needs to look really dewy. 
• Make the contour really visible but blend it really well. Dont bring it too far towards the mouth. 
• Use patting motions when putting highlighter on the nose as this will prevent the foundation from moving 
• Use a really fluffy brush for the eyeshadow, the eyeshadow needs to be really blended and symmetrical. Make sure it is kept only in the crease and not too far to the eyebrows. 
• When applying the blusher make sure it is on the right part of the face right on the apples of the cheeks, the blusher was really high and was close to my eye when it should be at the bottom of my cheekbones and blended into the contour. They became two separates on the face with a space between. The blush should sit slightly on the bottom of the contour and blend in easily. 
• Make sure the cupids bow is really prominent meaning you will have to line it into shape. 

For a first practise I think the design was successful but there was quite a few things I wanted to be particular about to give my design the look I wanted. 

PRACTISING MY PARTNERS FINAL DESIGN

First Practise 

This was my first practise of my partners design. I was quite nervous about doing the symmetrical shape on the face and getting it really crisp. Me being the perfectionist I am would change a lot about my first practise but I did like the blending of the gold on the outside of the heart and I think it looked really effective.

CHANGES TO BE MADE... 

• Use a ruler to actually help make the shape symmetrical, especially the cheek bone shape as one was more further in that the other side. 
• Use concealer on any blemishes making sure the skin looks flawless and the foundation is a nice full coverage. 
• Make the point of the heart in the middle really sharp, using a thinner brush. 
• Use a black liner and red lipstick instead of the Supra colour which was discussed with partner who agreed it would work better as super colour is not a good lip product as it slips really easily. 
• I would like the make the nose contour smaller lines and blend it downwards really lightly as I think this looks really harsh. 
• Use a cream product under the eyes to make the color a lot denser. Also use a different more deeper red eyeshadow as this one looked really pink even when layering it. 
• Make the flicks more upwards and end at the eyebrows so they aren't as prominent 
• Neaten up the eye area in general making the lines alot more clean and blended. 

STEP BY STEP GUIDE

Step to step guide for my final makeup look 

1.) Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face. Using Aveeno moisturiser to suit the dry skin type.

2.) Apply satin primer to the whole face and leave for a minute before applying foundation.

3.) Mix Illamasqua skin base foundation, 2 parts 01 and 1 part 08.

4.) Apply using a damp sponge to whole of face, don't use a brush.

5.) Only use patting motions all over the face, don't swipe the sponge or make circular motions as this will rub the foundation off.

6.) Keep building up the coverage until all of the redness is covered and the face looks flawless.

7.) Apply illamasqua skin base lift in corners and across eyelids and under the eye and cupids bow. Blend with sponge (patting motions)

8.) Set under eyes using loose powder and powder puff and then apply contour with a mixture of colours Glamour Tan and Bronzing Summer from the powder contour kit to the cheekbones and forehead.

9.) Apply colour pale tan to the upper cheeks and then use Revolution highlighter on top. Also use on the bridge of the nose.

10.) Apply illamasqua pink blush to the centre of cheeks in circular motions making sure it meets with the contour.

11.) Apply kryolan aqua colour to eyebrows using a spooley brushing upwards to create a bushy eyebrow effect, covering completely in product.

12.) Apply MAC cosy grey eyeshadow to the crease of the eye, dark enough for the pearls to stand out later on. Use a fluffy brush making sure they are completely blending.

13.) Apply illamasqua liquid metals in gold to inner corner of eyes and cupids bow

14.) Apply mascara making the eyelashes really black and quite clumped.

15.) Apply rimmel purple liner in middle of lips and blend outwards making the lips slightly over lined and the cupids bow more prominent.

16.) Apply sleek lipstick on top of lip liner and blend outwards, then use concealer on the corner of the lips and blend inwards.

17.) Apply pearls using eyelash glue to stick them onto the skin, just slightly above the crease going downwards like in the picture. Do not make the pearls too arched or round.

MY FINAL DESIGN

After incorporating all of the features I wanted in my final design and working from my first face chart I came up with this makeup as my final design. I love how the final makeup turned out and I like how it is quite simple yet really effective. I kept the skin looking really dewy and highlighted with a pale base. I used dark red lips to show Lettice Knoylls dark side and faded them outwards to give a fashion vibe. I wanted the eyebrows to stay white and look brushed through so they weren't a prominent feature to the face.  I love how the pearls look on the eye and my idea was to create a contemporary 'cut crease' look but using adornments that may have been used in the elizabethan era. I wanted my look to be very fashion based and suitable for runway. I think I have achieved this without it being too dramatic as I wanted to make sure it wasn't over the top or similar to other designs. If i was to do this again I might have used something else other than pearls as I know many people have used pearls and I'd like to do something different. I also would use lashes on the bottom if I had more time to make the eyes look bigger.

PRODUCT LIST TO USE-

SKIN-
Illamasqua skin base WHITE and 07 mixed
Illamasqua satin primer
Seventeen liquid highlighter (will be provided)
Illamasqua translucent powder
Illamasqua sculpt kit (will be provided)
Illamasqua blush duo (will be provided)
Revolution baked highlighter (will be provided)


EYES AND EYEBROWS-
NYX jumbo pencil (will be provided)
Illamasqua metal palette- gold
MAC brown eyeshadow from palette
black mascara
small pearls (will be provided)

LIPS
Sleek lipstick (will be provided)

MY FINAL DESIGN PRACTICE

Today I decided to practise two of my face charts and see which I preferred best on the actual face. I wanted to create something that  was simple but detailed, very pretty and was going to look great on camera.

PRACTISING THE BASE AND BLOCKING OUT EYEBROWS 

In the first image you can see I have applied the base, this was Illamasqua skin base 08 mixed with 01, I wanted the skin to be very pale but still have a yellow undertone and not be completely white. The skinbase worked really well especially with the satin primer underneath, it made the skin flawless and dewy and gave enough coverage to cover any blemishes and redness. I then used the dermacolor concealer mixed with illamasqua skin base lift in white for under the eyes to brighten up the face and hide any unwanted dark circles. I wanted to create my look based for fashion or editorial so I think the choice of foundation is great for that as other foundations such as the ultra palette is a lot more full coverage and I don't think it would look as nice on camera. 

I then used a couple of different products on the eyebrows to see which worked best. First I tried an Illamasqua skin base lift in white with a spoolie and brushed the product through the eyebrows it worked really well but I couldn't get the brushed up effect I wanted because the product was cream based meaning it just warmed up and the hair fell back into place. 

I wanted something that would keep the eyebrows standing up and made them look more bushy and the hairs more defined. I decided to try a water base product which I know would stick to every individual hair. The aqua colour worked really well and helped the eyebrows stay in place. 

I then experimented my first design by using the gold in the inner corners and creating the fashion ombre lip. I also added some light brown to the crease of the eye just to create some shade so the eye wasn't so blank. It also means once the pearls were there they would stand out more against the brown. I tried using some of the gold under the brow bone which in the end I didn't really like as the colour showed up different on camera. I also added some blush and contour which made the skin exactly how I wanted it to look, I like the fact it was dewy and highlighted but still looked like the elizabethan historic skin with the blushed cheeks and pale complexion. 

CHOOSING A PLACEMENT
The next step was to choose the placement of the pearls, I knew I wanted them somewhere around the eye but not on top of the eyebrow as I knew this would make the forehead look smaller and I wanted to make it look as big as possible to fit in with the ELizabethan theme. I tried doing them directly across the eye from the inner corner to the end of the brow and I quite liked how it looked but I wanted it to look a bit more softer and feminine. I then tried extending the line of pearls to the hair line to see if it would look better, as the sides of the face are quite plain. Unfortunately because of the face shape the line became distorted and it was difficult to get it into a straight line, on camera it appeared to bend.
I then tried the design which I did on the face chart which was rounded on the crease of the eye. I loved how this looked and thought it looked a lot more pretty and suited the face shape. I then added black mascara to make the eye colour pop and look more defined.

CREATING A FINAL LOOK AND PRACTISING MY SECOND FACE CHART
I then made this into a final look by creating a hairstyle as I wanted to see what both face charts would look like finalised. I then went on to creating the second look. I left all of the products the same but removed the blusher and took the pearls off ready to create the next look.
I started by adding more gold to the inner corner of the eye and over the eyebrows. I also made the lips fully lined and filled. I then used a bronzer to create the contour, I used a piece of card as a stencil to create the heart shape of the forehead and carried the bronzer down onto the cheekbones.
I then added the pearls using eyelash glue and tweezers around the heart shape contour making it more prominent.

CHOOSING A FINAL DESIGN 
I really like how both designs turned out which meant it was harder to choose between the two of them. When creating a final look including hair I decided to go with the first design as it looked a lot better with the hairstyle I wanted to do. Even though the other makeup looked really effective too it didn't work well with the hairstyle as there was too much on the forehead. I feel like its really important to think of every element of your final design to be able to find the right makeup. If you don't think about the hair, outfit, accessories etc. then things can clash or not work together.

FINAL DESIGN FACE CHARTS

Before deciding on a final design I came up with three different makeup ideas using Face charts. All of them were designed with elements from historical and contemporary Elizabethan makeup and they were all based around my character Lettice Knoylls.

FACE CHART 1 

For my first face chart I looked back at my research and came up with a makeup that included everything I wanted, dewy skin, gold accents, adornments to the face and dark lips. It was influenced a lot by runway makeup as I wanted to keep it minimal but striking.
I used illamasqua skin base mixed to give a pale complexion but not white. I also used a satin primer to make the skin look more dewy and contemporary. I used glamour tan to contour as it has slight grey tones to it which I think will work really well rather than a really bronzy contour which would take away the Elizabethan look. I also used a pink blush from illamasqua to fit in with the historical look.
The gold on the eyes was a mixture between liquid metals from illamasqua and the kryolan aqua colour to create the highlights in the eyes and cupids bow.
I want the eyebrows to be still visible but with white aqua colour through them. I think this works really well for fashion and I was really inspired by runway pictures.
The dark lips symbolise the bad side of Lettice Knoylls, I wanted to make her look darker and different to other Elizabethan characters. I made the lips fade outwards leaving the lips not fully filled to create a smaller lip which was a feature all women wanted in the Elizabethan era.
Although I have drawn pearls along the crease line I dont know exactly where I want to put them on the eye which is why I need to experiment and see where looks best.

FACE CHART 2 

In my second face chart I still wanted to use the concepts of dewy skin, gold accents, dark lips, adornments etc. But I wanted to change where the pearls were placed and look at different ways to place the colours on the face.
I had an idea of creating a dark contour,contemporary look, into a heart shape on the face which would give that Elizabethan historic look. I used a more bronze colour to create the shape and also used blush on the cheeks upwards rather than a round shape on the cheeks. I then used the pearls around the heart contour of the head meaning it make the heart shape more prominent and also look really feminine and pretty.
I wanted the eyebrows to be completely blocked out and the gold to be more extreme from the first look. I made the gold smudge from the inner corners up to the eyebrows and slightly across the lid. I really like how this looks as the eyes look simple but then have that striking gold.
I then used the same lip colour from my mac palette to create the dark red lips but filled in the whole lips this time making them really neat and a nice feature to the face.

FACE CHART 3 

I wanted my third and final face chart to be completely different to the others to show a range of different makeup I could possibly do.
I wanted the face to be completely pale using Illamasqua white skin base and the contour to be really strong using Glamour Tan.
The most prominent feature to the face is the black, I wanted to create a heart shape using black paint. The black made the person look almost evil and dark, but then the soft makeup counteracted and looked innocent. This is the feeling I get from my character Lettice, was she a nice or nasty person? This makeup was to show an element of a bad side and good side.
I made the lips a brighter red colour as I wanted the face to look very normal and historical Elizabethan.
After I had finished this design I liked the concept behind it but didn't like the actual look as it reminded me too much of a Disney villain. I also think the black might look too harsh on the camera and wouldn't give the right look I wanted.

INSPIRATION FOR FINAL DESIGN

Dewy skin
I really want to have dewy skin for my final design to make it more contemporary. Dewy skin today represents youthfulness, healthy and beautiful skin which is what Elizabethan women wanted back then. I still want to make the skin really pale but I just want to have that glowing highlight as I think it would look really effective with the rest of the Elizabethan look.

Dark lips
The normal Elizabethan look is very bright orange red lips where as I want to opt for a more dark grunge red lip. This is more to represent my character's personality of having a dark side to her and the fact I want her to look different to the other women of the era. I feel like she would be a manizer of her era and the dark lips would definitely lure men.

Gold accents 
I wanted gold to be included somewhere in the makeup because to me it represents royalty and wealth which my character is. I didnt want her to be covered in jewels or anything really dramatic as I think she would of been the sort of women that was really beautiful without trying or wearing extravagant makeup and clothes. The gold will be really simple and will only be to highlight certain parts of the face.

No eyebrows
I definitely want my makeup to have no eyebrows as I think this is one of the main features that screams 'Elizabethan'. Although I do want the hairs to still be visible but maybe just lightened using a white colour or maybe even bleach. I think this will really help get the message across that it is an Elizabethan makeup and it makes the other features of the face stand out more.

Adornments to the face 
Even though I want the makeup to be really simple I do want to add some sort of adornment to the face just for the extra detail. I really like the idea of pearls as they are really delicate and pretty without being too much. I think I will use really small pearls to decorate the face in some way to represent wealth and also just to make the makeup more detailed.

LADY IN WAITING CHARACTER

CONTEMPORARY ELIZABETHAN

Contemporary takes on the elizabethan era..

Illamasqua once collection

I found this contemporary version from Alex Box so beautiful, She was obviously heavily inspired by the Elizabethans which can be seen through the hair colour, outfit and makeup. I love how soft and feminine the images are. My favourite part of the whole look is that the skin is actually dewy and glowing and the eyes are dark. I love the fact the eyebrows are fair yet still visible and still give of the Elizabethan vibes. 

“old cannot exist without new, juxtaposition exalts the differences. She endures, her spirit is encapsulated, timeless and as present and as vital as the morning light, whilst everything around her gently decays. She feels both vintage yet with a modern vital spirit. Beauty endures.” Alex Box

Sheguang Hu’s s/s 2012

I couldn't find much information about Hu's collection at all. Although looking through his recent collection it is obvious he always wants to make a big statement. Nothing gives a good statement like the no eyebrow look, as not many people are used to seeing the face with no eyebrows. You can see he was inspired by the elizabethans the fact he has used huge neck frills and collars and blocking out the eyebrows and eyelashes with white makeup definitely shows some elizabethan influences. 

Alexander McQueen Fall 2014

Although there was no mention of Elizabethan inspiration in the fall collection I could definitely see some influences. For one, the eyebrows were blocked out creating the look of a high forehead, the cheeks were heavily blushed and the use of gold on the eyes definitely showed royalty. Also plaits were a huge thing in Elizabethan times and many women including Queen Elizabeth used initricate plaiting in their hairstyles. Sarah Burton said she wanted the whole look to be fairytale like with virginal smocks in broderie anglais. The virginal look was the look of the Tudor times and they have definitely somewhat took inspiration with the paleness of the face. 

"Wild beauty" was Sarah Burton's inspiration. She insisted she was over construction, corseting, control. "I wanted to see the woman's face again," she said. "Wild beauty" was Sarah Burton's inspiration. She insisted she was over construction, corseting, control. "I wanted to see the woman's face again," TIM BLANKS, VOGUE  

Vogue Russia- December 2010 

I couldnt find any information at all on the editorial from Vogue Russia but I did find out the photographer was Sharif Hamza. After looking at his other images he always takes quite striking, dark, dramatic images. I love the way this Elizabethan themed shoot is quite dark and gothic and the clothing is very structured. The lacks of eyebrows and dark lips is a beautiful look and showed referencing from the Tudor times. Also the costumes and crowns definitely represented Elizabethans. I love the dark lips and hair that is used on the last image I think it gives a very contemporary look to the image yet still shows inspiration through the plaited hair, no eyebrows and clothing. 

MONOCHROMATIC DESIGN- TECHNICAL

For my monochromatic design I chose the colour red, meaning I could only use different shades of red on a white base and nothing else. I chose the colour red because I wanted to link my design to Elizabethans,Red is the colour of blood and fire, it is associated with a number of things such as war, danger, strength, and power. It is also a very emotional colour that can indicate passion, desire and love. This links really well with Elizabethans as everything was based around war and power at that time.

I wanted to create something that was dramatic and using an intense colour like red would do this. I also wanted my design to be inspired by Elizabethan makeup so I chose to block out the eyebrows and create really rosy cheeks. 

I started by cleansing toning and moisturizing Annabel's skin making sure I had a clean and perfect base ready to apply the makeup on to. I applied a matte primer as I wanted the whole makeup to be completely matte. 

I chose to use Illamasqua skin base for my design as I wanted to start practicing using it ready for my final design. I used a damp beauty blender to create a full coverage white base. I wanted the skin to look airbrushed and flawless which the skin base did because of how moisturizing it is. I then applied a pressed powder to the whole face to prevent any product from moving. 

Annabel already has very fair eyebrows which was perfect for my design and the white colour covered them fairly well. If i was to use someone with dark eyebrows I could block them out using a red grease paint and then apply a white over the top. 

I then applied a red eye shadow from my kryolan palette to the lid, blending upwards all the way up to the eyebrow. I wanted the colour to be deeper on the lid and then get lighter towards the eyebrow. Th red made Annabel's eyes pop and really stand out. I then used a black liner in the water line to make the colour stand out even more. I used false lashes on the outer corners of both the top and bottom lashes to create a contemporary look. 

I then used a red blush on the cheeks and blended out a lot to create a pink colour. I wanted the blush to be quite round similar to the Elizabethans. I chose to do an ombre lip which makes the lips appear smaller which i like. 

Overall I really like how my design turned out and I think I transferred the look from a face chart to face really well. Although I do think it looks a little bit too 'Queen of Hearts'. I would like to try this look without a white base as I think it would portray more of a contemporary fashion look rather than theatrical.

THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

This week I visited the National Portrait Gallery with the rest of my class to see the Tudor Portraits. When there we were asked to look through the Elizabethan Portraiture and find an image that visually engages you. I then had to look for symbolic references within the portrait and talk about what the clothing says about the sitter. I also had to identify physical characterists such as age, social class, influences and personality type.
Once home I was to research the image and find out who the person was and why they were sitting for the image. Also finding out if the symbolic references I found were correct. I think this was a good way to challenge how I look at portraiture and to test my knowledge.

Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia 1596-1662
by Robert Peake the Elder


The portrait that visually engaged me was the one of Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia. Without reading the text that was near explaining about the portrait I began to look at it and really examine it. Firstly the portrait stood out to me because the women looked really young and beautiful, she also reminded me of Queen Elizabeth I with her pale complexion and structured hair. I loved her clothing with the lace trim around her neck and hair, her dress looked covered in tiny beads and jewels and she had a small jewel head piece. All of these characteristics indicate wealth and to me she looked like an important person. The fact her hair was quite structured and her makeup and clothing looked pristine says to me that she is very prosperous. I think she definitely took influences from Queen Elizabeth as her style is very similar and makeup almost exactly the same, I like that fact she was inspired by her with her own twist. She looks alot more delicate and pretty than Elizabeth I did.


The symbolic references I took from the portrait was that she looked miserable and sad, like she wasn't really happy behind the scenes of the painting. The bags under her eyes make her look really tired and almost drained of life. Her dress looked very structured and stiff making her look like a doll. The encrusted jewels on her dress and jewels hanging across her shows wealth and the lace around her neck and hair makes her look very royal as delicate lace like that is very expensive.






Researching the sitter

After Researching the sitter I found out te portrait was painted by Robert Peake the Elder who was an English painted who was active in the later part of Queen Elizabeth I reign. Elizabeth was the only surviving daughter of James I. In 1613 she married Frederick, Elector Palatine, the ruler of the Palatinate, an are of present day Germany. In 1619 following a rebellion against the Catholic Hapsburg rulers, Frederick accepted the throne of Bohemia making Elizabeth the Queen of Bohemia. He and Elizabeth were expelled after less than a year, however in one of the early battles of what became known as the Thirty Years War. Living in exile in the Hague, Elizabeth came to be seen as an ideal Protestant heroine, although in reality she had little power and less money. Her large family of children included Prince Rupert and Princess Sophia the mother of George I.

Ref- National Portrait Gallery

EXPERIMENTING WITH WHITE BASE- TECHNICAL

In this lesson we experimented with different white bases to find out which would work best, I chose to use Supracolor, Aquacolor and Illamasqua white skin base...

Supracolor

Supra color is a grease paint formula, I have previously used this product and found sometimes it can work well, sometimes it can be a a disaster. On this occasion I used a matte primer because the product is so creamy. I then used a brush to buff the product into the skin, it was fairly easy to get a good coverage as the consistency is very thick. I don't think you would be able to buff this out into a lighter coverage because it is a grease paint meaning it is a very pigmented thick formula. The finish of the product was very shiny and If you were to touch the face the product would definitely transfer. If i was to use this product for a design I would have to fully set with a translucent powder to stop any of the product moving. I do like the end result of this but felt the product was too heavy for a contemporary look and I want to find something that makes the skin look pale but not like face paint. 

Aquacolor 

Kryolan aqua color is a water activated product, knowing that i knew it would be very matte and drying therefore I used a satin primer before to make sure the skin had enough hydration. I then applied the aqua color first using a brush, the brush left streak marks through the face and was really hard to blend. I then tried using a sponge which went on the face a lot better leaving no streak marks. For a contemporary Elizabethan design I don't think this product would be best as it is very similar to face paint therefore looks almost clown-like. Although I think this would work well when recreating a traditional look as the texture is really chalky and matte and the colour pay off is really good. I feel it looks really similar to the skin back then. 

Illamasqua skin base

Illamasqua skin base was definitely my favourite of the three as it was very versatile and you could build it up to the coverage you wanted. I used a satin primer again as I wanted to see how dewy it would go, as you can always make the formula matte afterwards with a primer. I found the product easy to use and if it was buffed out enough you could create a lovely light coverage giving just a hint of white to the face. I then tried using a sponge which created a full coverage white face, this also looked really good and I preferred the texture of the product to the other ones as it was easy to blend and easy to build up. I am going to try using this product for my final design as I think it will work really well and photograph nicely. 

OTHER INTERPRETATIONS OF QUEEN ELIZABETH- FILM AND TV

Over the decades like many icons Queen Elizabeth has been portrayed many times by many famous actresses. It really shows how she is one of histories most remembered Queens. Each film portrays Elizabeth in a different way, all similar but a lot of details influenced by their own era. Its interesting to see the journey of the look developing through the years...



Mary of Scotland (1936)

'Mary (Katharine Hepburn), by assuming her throne as Queen of Scotland, strikes terror into the heart of Queen Elizabeth I (Florence Eldridge). After languishing in jail for 18 years at Elizabeth's command, Mary is offered a pardon if she will sign away her throne.' Wikipedia- Mary of Scotland (film) 

 It is hard to see how the makeup looks in the film as it is in black and white, although you can still see a change from no makeup to a really harsh hairline towards the end and thick caked makeup. I like the way the eyebrows are still visible yet only a thin line which has been influenced from the era the film was made.  

The Virgin Queen (1955)


'Sir Walter Raleigh overcomes court intrigue to win favor with the Queen in order to get financing for a proposed voyage to the New World.' IMDb 

Bette Davis plays Queen Elizabeth in the film that focuses on the relationship between Elizabeth and Sir Walter Raleigh. I think this is one of the first films that shows the true dramatic look of the Queen with the huge forehead and pasty makeup. It is also one of the first colour films portraying her which means you can see the makeup a lot better including the bright red lips and ghostly white skin.



Elizabeth R (1971)


'When Elizabeth Tudor comes to the throne, her (male) advisers know she has to marry. Doesn't she? Thus starts a decades-long political/ matrimonial game, during an age of high passions and high achievement.' IMDb 
Elizabeth R was a TV Drama Series that showed the Queens transformation in the most dramatic form. The makeup that was portrayed towards the end looked almost clown like, a bald cap was also used to make the hair look as far back as possible. I think the tv series showed the change really well and showed how extreme it really was.












Shakespeare in Love (1998)
'A young Shakespeare, out of ideas and short of cash, meets his ideal woman and is inspired to write one of his most famous plays.' IMDb

Shakespeare in love starring Judi Dench as Elizabeth is a story of her being involved in a romantic tail of Shakespeare falling in love. The makeup is portrayed very well showing she is trying to hide her age. The heart shape wig is also very accurate along with the elaborate costumes and jewelry.




The Virgin Queen (2005)

'The Virgin Queen explores the full sweep of Elizabeth's life: from her days of fear as a potential victim of her sister's terror; through her great love affair with Robert Dudley; into her years of triumph over the Armada; and finally her old age and her last, enigmatic relationship with her young protégé, the Earl of Essex.' IMBd 
Anne-Marie Duff played Elizabeth in this adaptation of Elizabeth's life. The film covers all major ages - from her innocent teenage years to her older years as Queen. This is the perfect film to show her transformation and how much she changes through the main stages in her life. The makeup and hair differs from other films, she has strawberry blonde hair instead of fiery red.

TUDOR COSMETICS

In my introduction to Elizabethan makeup I mentioned about some of the dangers that were used in Tudor times, especially in the cosmetics. After doing some more research I wanted to go more into depth about the the cosmetics and the dangerous ingredients within them. I wanted to understand more about what was used as I think it is an important factor of the Tudor times and really emphasises how far they would go to look beautiful.
Although the women used makeup to indicate their wealth they also used it for more practical reasons like we do now. Most used the thick makeup to hide scars and other diseases such as smallpox that were very common.
The use of heavy makeup wasn't popular during the early Tudors, they actually used more natural products to soften the skin with ingredients such as honey, beeswax and sesame oil.
It wasn't until Queen Elizabeth set the fashions that makeup became popular in England. She wore really dramatic makeup to hide any imperfections, wrinkles or signs of ageing, this made other women want to do the same, which is why makeup became so popular.

The white paint that was favored by the upper class named 'ceruse' was made from extremely dangerous ingredients. The mixture contained white lead and vinegar which was actually poisonous making the skin in very bad condition. The high class Tudor women used to bleed their face to achieve the washed out complexion and face paint made our of plant roots was also used.
They also used Kohl to darken the eyelashes which was imported from the middle east and products names madder and vermilion were used to make the rouge for the lips and cheeks. This would stain them and last a very long time.
Apparently the richer women used to laugh at the poor women for using cheaper versions of the products such as flour for a white, face which is quite ironic as the more expensive product caused a lot of damage,where as the cheap version had no damaging effects at all.
In the pictures we see Corinthian pyxis with a red powder, and two make-up pots with molded tablets of white lead.. Found in a tomb from the 5th c. BC. Although a lot earlier than the Tudors this is where the ingredients were first seen to be used and are very similar to what was used by Queen Elizabeth. I find it really interesting to see how far back makeup was used.




References 

Beauty and Cosmetics 1550-1950
Sarah Jane Downing
Tudor Makeup
http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm
Dangerous beauty
http://www.thetudorswiki.com/thread/4627614/Tudor+Cosmetics...dangerous+beauty

COLOUR THEORY AND FACE CHART

Colour theory is really important in all different subjects but especially in the world of makeup. Knowing which colours compliment different skin, hair and eye colours is vital to get the best makeup look possible for the person.

In my opinion there is no rules in makeup and you should be able to wear whatever colour makes you happy, although their are some guidelines. This will help people to find the right colours for them if they are just starting out, using colour theory will make sure everything on your face looks harmonious.
This is what I learnt about basic colour theory...


The colour wheel is divided into three parts which are Primary Secondary and Tertiary...

PRIMARY is red blue and yellow, the three colours that are considered to be the most important, the foundation colours that create all other colours.

SECONDARY is when you combine two primary colours to create another colour. They're three secondary colours that can be made which is orange, violet and green.

TERTIARY is the six colours made from mixing a primary colour and a separate secondary colour together. The colour made are yellow-orange, orange-red, red-violet, violet-blue, blue-green and green-yellow.

HUE is all of these type of colours they are the infite number of colours that you can make with the primary, secondary and tertiary colours without adding any black or white.

TINTS is adding white to a hue.

SHADES is adding black to a hue.

TONES is adding grey to a hue.

COMPLEMENTARY AND CONTRASTING colours is colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel they will always compliment eachother really well. Although make sure you arrange them wisely or they can clash if there is too many as they will all try stand in the spotlight. These work best when using two colours as they will make each other pop and stand out really nicely.

ANALOGOUS colours are the shades next to eachother on the colour wheel, they will normally create a really nice soft tone.

ACHROMATIC colours are black, white and grey.

NEUTRAL colours are brown earthy tones.

MONOCHROMATIC colours are different shades of the same colour eg. light blue, dark blue. These work really well for eyeshadow and are probably one of the easiest colour palettes to work with when trying out makeup shades.

All colours can also come in cool and warm undertones (just to make it even more complicated) For example a lot of foundations and lipsticks come in different undertones. Here is a picture of MAC's NW shade and NC shade. NW (right) is a warm shade with a pink undertone where as NC (left) is a cool shade that has more of a yellow undertone.

This diagram really helped me to understand more about colour theory and colour charts I am going to print this for my makeup kit so that I can refer back to it..

References

Colour Theory in Makeup- 

http://sharonthemakeupartist.com/colour-theory-in-makeup/

Colour Theory in Makeup Artistry- https://tommybeautypro.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/makeup-101-colour-theory-make-up-artistry/

Theory of Colours- Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

MY FIRST FACE CHART
For my first practice of a face chart in a long while I decided to use contrasting colours to see if they would work well together. I first used powder products but found they weren't really sticking to the paper at all and didn't come off very pigmented. I tried using a brush and my finger but none of them techniques achieved the brightness I was aiming for. I then decided to try Kryolan Supracolour which is a grease paint. I knew cream products would go really bright on the paper but I was worried they wouldn't blend at all. To my surprise they did actually blend well when using a brush. I then patted eye shadow over the top to set the product and stop it from moving on the paper.
I went for a really dramatic bold eye using purple and yellow, which looked fabulous together and I can really see why you would use contrasting colours if you wanted the makeup to stand out.
I also used purple on the outside of the lips with yellow in the inside to create an ombre effect.
I like how my face chart turned out but next time I need to try not to smudge product all over the paper as I don't want the face to end up with black smeared all over her chin again. I also need to try different products to see if any work better for doing other eye colours and I need to try different face products and I focused more on the eyes and lips this time.